![]() ![]() Follow the big cable back from the plug and you should find it. The horse trailers I have had all had a small fuse box, generally near the floor in the tack room. (Again, a very common failure point.) Yes spark, ground probably OK, and you'll need to check the individual tail lights, and the wiring running to them. Still no? Bad connection where the white wire connects to the frame. Should get a fat spark, and probably the wire will get hot. Still no? try connecting the battery between the white wire and trailer frame. If you still get no lights, try connecting to the trailer frame (use a file to get down to clean bare metal) instead of the white ground wire. If the wrong lights illuminate, note which wire gets which light. Really helps to have someone watch the trailer lights while you work the jumper wires. Just use 2 lengths of wire with the insulation stripped from the ends, and be careful not to short out the battery. You should get the left turn/brake, right turn/brake, and tail/running lights to come on. Try connecting a 12v battery from the white "ground" wire to the red, brown, and green at the back of the new connector. Never the less, the circuits are all on the same pins, only the wire colors change, so it shouldn't really matter. The wire colors and arrangement match the RV connector. One of the pins from the original 7 pin (they are like clips) was sitting too low and I thought would not connect properly hence the fiddling. TIA!Įdit to add: yes brake controller and lights/signals did work. Does anyone see a different configuration from my photos?The black wire got a little sliced up and its clear to me the yellow goes behind it. I believe my hubby tried both directions.Īnyway if this was the original configuration it should work. With the 7 pin face on it would be opposite. It looks like, from the top going counterclockwise: green/red/white ground/blue/brown/black and I hope the center is yellow. ![]() So.the drawing is of the original 7pin, facing away. The truck 7 pin had been fine with another trailer recently. It had worked fine the last two times out, but I had to fiddle with the blades/corrosion for a half hour, thats why I wanted to replace the 7 pin on the trailer. The truck and the old connector seemed a bit finicky, I put it down to corrosion. He gave up and so I have spent the last two and a half hours whittling down the original connector. Hubby could not get the configuration to work (its the photo with the NG marked on it). I'm just a little exhausted (cross eyes). More than some of the tenured professors in the department as far as that goes. Students coming out of my class knew more about the tools they were using than just how to push an "autoscale" button, I can promise you that. I would lock up all of the newer instrumentation, and equip the stations with an analog multimeter similar to the one shown (only even cheaper ones from Radio Shack), and dusty old analog oscilloscopes. Just FWIW, I used to get handed the Freshman/Sophomore Circuits lab from time to time. A digital one can give misleading results, whereas with the old-school ones, if the meter needle moves, you can be reasonably sure there is voltage or continuity in the circuit you are testing. I think you can also get a dedicated tester you can plug in, with LEDs that illuminate when the truck lights are activated, but the multimeter is a more useful device in the long run.Īnd I strongly suggest the analog meter. Armed with this, it is real easy to test the receptacle on your truck.
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